December 10, 2005

Mai Pen Rai - take it easy, don't worry

A combination of their Buddhist beliefs and a long history of disregard by central Thai governments has produced an extremely tolerant attitude to life amongst the Isaan. Throughout the Isaan (and Thailand) you will often hear the phrase "mai pen rai" (loosely translated as - it's nothing).

The conversational use is more often translated to "it doesn't matter" but should, perhaps, be translated as "don't worry about it". Annoyingly (to the Farang struggling with the Thai language) "mai pen rai" is often used by the Isaan as a cover in response to a question to which the answer is not known, and is often perceived as meaning "it doesn't matter, so why are you asking".

As trivial as this may seen, "mai pen rai" is a common response, and can be quite annoying when encountered in monotonous regularity as part of the Buddhist desire to maintain a calm perspective and not openly react in provocative situations. Often the Isaan will also use the term as a means to convey the idea that something is not really something that you should be worried about or, in a western vernacular, "take it easy, don't worry".

Combine this with a historically harsh life and the lack of will to act instilled from continually being ignored as inferior (by the less tolerant mainstream, Bangkok based governing bodies) it is easy to begin to understand the roots of the easy going Isaan's "mai pen rai" attitude (if you can't do anything about it, why worry about it).

In the modern Isaan "mai pen rai" has evolved into what is possibly the clearest insight into the Isaan culture of hospitality and laid back acceptance of life and the real enjoyment to be gained by not worrying too much about the wrong things.

It may take a little perseverance for a farang to accept the "mai pen rai" as not being a personal affront from the Isaan. Remembering that the Buddhist basis of the Isaan culture teaches a non aggressive (particularly in a one on one situation) approach may help to accept "mai pen rai" as a friendly avoidance of losing "face" rather than a personal rebuke.

December 07, 2005

Isaan medicine - not always the obvious

Throughout the Isaan natural holistic medicines which have been used for centuries often contain ingredients which may surprise and are sometimes totally misused. Partly due to the blind faith of the uneducated and the desperate desire for an unaffordable cure the healing powers of some ingredients are, at the best, abused.

In no way do I claim to have even a mediocre knowledge of things medicinal. However, I am certain that the possible healing properties of a freshly plucked eucalyptus leaf will not be found in a dried piece of hardwood (eucalyptus or not) which has been part of some ramshackle building for twenty years or more.

An examle of this abuse was perpertrated on an old lady, barely able to walk unsupported, undertaking a tiring trip to visit a local "doctor". This so called "doctor", on discovering the old lady had no money, simply told her to infuse, into her morining tea, shavings from an old piece of wood found lying in the "doctors" yard. Even worse was the fact the wood still had rusty nails protruding from it which had recently attached it to side of a ramshackle shed now used to house the family poultry. The sad side of this story (which I had the displeasure of observing) is that the old lady desperate for a cure for her aches and pains took the wood home and began paring off slivers for the next mornings tea.

Luckily, at some time during the night the offending piece of wood accidently became part of the cooking fire. The following day the old lady was taken to the local hospital where she was given medicines that may not have cured her ailment (I was not there long enough to find out) but most certainly eased her immediate pains.

Harbouring a mild dislike to unnatural western miracle cure alls, I was a little taken back by the obvious deception played out by the charlatan in the name of natural holistic medicines. Like many westerners who come to live in the Asian world a slow acceptance of the "alternative" medicines has begun to infiltrate my western upbringing. One of my favourites introductions on the subject can be found at the Tao Mountain.